Wednesday, December 20, 2023

Christkindlmarkts 2023...Day 4: Regensburg

Regensburg has been on our list to visit for a while, but for whatever reason, we never have made it there until now! We traveled via the Bavarian Ticket. The train ride was around 1:40 from Munich. It was a very easy ride and we quickly found our way to the main market after we stopped off at the beautiful Regensburg cathedral. We always like to walk into churches in Europe and just marvel over the architecture. 


Regensburg Cathedral did not disappoint with its stunning architecture.


Once we arrived at the market, I found myself being quite impressed with the gluhwein and mug options. One of the gluhwein stalls had multiple mugs and they gave me a different style each time I ordered my rose gluhwein, which just for future reference is my favorite gluhwein!


Cloudy day at the Regensburg Christkindlmarkt


The Regensburg Dom is a gorgeous backdrop for the Regensburg Christkindlmarkt


Regensburg old town market



We arrived around lunchtime and one of our favorite things to do is try the different market food. Ken and I vary slightly on what we want to eat for lunch so the market options usually work out perfectly for us. Ken ended up with some type of a sandwich and my eyes went straight to the enormous pretzels with cheese and peppers.


I am not sure I could be any happier than I am in this photo. Christkindlmarkts in Germany, check. Delicious pretzel, check. Rose gluhwein, check. 


If you are wondering if I ate the entire pretzel, I did not. Ken had to help me finish it, which I think is one of his favorite parts about being married to me, getting to finish half of my food most of the time!

We walked from the old town market across the river and saw the Spital Brewery/Biergarten and knew we would be back later to enjoy the market and the brewery.


Beautiful Regensburg


In addition to the old town market, Regensburg is also well known for the Romantic Christmas Market that takes place at the Thurn and Taxis Palace. You pay a fee to enter, around 10 euros, and get to enjoy the palace grounds. I have to say, this was a very beautiful and unique market to experience. I am glad we got to see at dusk.

The market had several different areas with stalls. The inner courtyard housed the beautiful Christmas tree and ultimately had carolers singing after it got dark.


Thurn and Taxis courtyard


Courtyard market stalls. It was super charming.



Some of the outer ring stalls.


More Romantic Christmas Market stalls



It was pretty chilly while we were walking around. Some of the areas had fires going so we took advantage of that to warm up, along with gluhwein of course.



The market was so charming



The market proved to be even more picturesque at sunset.


The family that owns the palace still inhabits it



The Romantic market had only one option for gluhwein so you could return your mug to any of the stalls to get the deposit back. 


We did hear a lot more American English at this market than any of the others we have visited.



I always find that it is so difficult to convey the atmosphere in just a photo



I regret not buying one of the stars from this stall!



Happy girl with gluhwein



Taking in outer ring stalls before heading back to the courtyard


True love, a girl and her gluhwein


The stunning courtyard view


The perfect spot to enjoy a little gluhwein





I was freezing! The air was so damp that I felt so cold.


Ken found us a cozy spot where we enjoyed gluhwein and some candied nuts.


We left the market and walked across town to get back to the Spital Brewery which dates back to the 800's. Yes, 800's, not 1800's.  This brewery has a unique history as it was once part of a hospital because it was believed that beer had healing properties. 


The brewery does not usually sell mugs, but we were fortunate enough that the owner was feeling generous and allowed us to buy a mug to bring home.


In the summer months there is a biergarten overlooking the river outside of the brewery. In December, the biergarten is turned into a very cute Christkindlmarkt. It was really packed, but we obviously made sure we stopped for a gluhwein. 


One of the adorable stall (and all of the people)


We had a little time before catching the train back to Munich so we went back to the old town market for a bite to eat and a final gluhwein. 


This was the first market that I recall seeing the Heidelbeer Gluhwein.


We ended up closing down the old town market before hopping on the train to get back to Munich to end the night. We definitely enjoyed our time in Regensburg and will plan to visit in the summer so that we can enjoy the biergarten in all its glory!



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