Wednesday, July 31, 2019

Tour du Mont Blanc...Day 3: Les Chapieux to Courmayeur...

Les Chapieux to Courmayeur

Mileage:  19 miles

Elevation gain:  5750 ft

Camping:  Hotel in Courmayeur


We knew we had a huge day ahead of us on day 3, with 19 miles of hiking.  A lot of people take the bus from Les Chapieux to Les Mottets, which cuts off about three miles.  We decided we would walk it and it really was not that bad.  There is a small section of road walking, but I am not sure why people complain about this section.  There are other sections I would rather skip than this section.

We left Les Chapieux at 7:00 am knowing we were if for a long day.  This ended up being one of my favorite days of the trip.


Leaving Les Chapieux bright and early headed toward Les Mottets.


A little uphill road walking to start the day.


We heard of a lot of people skipping this section and taking a bus, but it really was not bad at all.  We saw some great scenery and pretty much had the trail to ourselves.

It was a gorgeous morning

 Mont Blanc and me

We were so excited about being on our way to Italy


We found a few cow friends just before arriving at Les Mottets.

The view from Les Mottets was beautiful.  I was obviously a huge fan of the white horse and the donkey.

When we left Les Mottets, it was a pretty steep climb.  It seemed like it was just up and up until we finally reached the top of the col.

Climbing with some amazing views

I wish I could have kept track of the number of waterfalls we encountered on this hike.  There were too many to count.

We were so worried about having bad weather on the ay we were hiking 19 miles, but as you can see, it was an amazing day for this long of a hike.

If you zoom in on this picture, you will see the rifugio, Robert Blanc.  It is in one of the snow passes.  To get to this rifugio, it is a very dangerous and scary hike. I watched a video of a group hiking to this rifugio and my heart was pounding.  I am sure it is a great place to visit, but it looks terrifying to get there!

The view at the top of the col, looking into Italy.  We made it to Italy!!!  Ciao, Ciao, Ciao!!!!


France was behind us and Italy is straight ahead


Welcome to Italy!  Ciao, Ciao!!!


Views for days


We hiked to rifugio Elisabetta and stopped for lunch.  We both had pasta and it was so good!  It was so interesting that once we crossed into Italy that people were speaking Italian.  I was expecting there to still be a lot of French since we were so close to the border but Italian it was!

The funniest thing that happed this entire day was when we were at Elisabetta and I thought I was grabbing parmesan cheese for my pasta.  As I was shaking a shit ton of it onto my pasta, I realized it was salt, or so I thought!  I laughed and started to eat my pasta when I realized it was sugar.  I shook a ton of sugar onto my pasta.  It really did not make it taste bad.  I was so hungry, so I would have eaten anything!  We had a good laugh about this for the remainder of the day.


Looking back at rifugio Elisabetta.  

After the descent from Elisabetta, we had a pretty easy hike across the valley.  It felt nice to walk on flat terrain for a bit.

We still had blue skies!

Ken was so grateful for the easy terrain

The flat terrain was short-lived and soon, we were hiking back up. Straight up.  The views were so beautiful and right along a stream, so it was difficult to be too mad that we were going up hill yet again.

I hiked up ahead of Ken for a bit and saw a beautiful waterfall.  I knew Ken would love it. I waited for Ken and got a picture of him.  It was so beautiful.  I cannot believe all of the beauty we were able to see during this hike.


Ken enjoying another waterfall

We were leapfrogging with some guys and we stopped at the waterfall together and took pictures for each other.  We continued meeting these guys, that we later learned were from Israel.  We ended up spending a lot of time with them and really liked them.

The wildflowers were my favorite.  I kept looking for Edelweiss.  


You could literally take pictures nonstop. The scenery was so beautiful at every single turn.


We made it to the top of the col and it was windy.  We did not stay long and started a very steep and somewhat dangerous decent.  There was a lot of loose rock and some pretty steep drop-offs.  We came upon a snow pass and I was really not looking forward to crossing it, but Italian food awaited us in Courmayeur!

We received the best Buongiorno of the trip on our decent.  The guy even rolled the R.  It was amazing.  When he saw me, he said "Bon Dee" which I thought was slang for Buongiorno, but Ken said the guy was calling me Blondie.  Oh well, it was pretty funny!


Looking back at one of the scarier snow passes that we crossed.  There was a pretty steep dropoff on the left and I told myself not to look.  Thank goodness for trekking poles!


We got to a section that was a ski area.  I have to say, I do not think I will ever be a skier.  There are so many areas with extremely steep dropoffs.  


Interpretation:  Don't be a dumbass

There was an area of artsy things once we got closer to Maison Vieille.  You could love through frames and see the glaciers and see different rifugios.  It really cool to see.  And then, we saw one of my favorite things of the entire trip.

I had been singing Edelweiss all-day and just before we arrived at Rifugio Maison Vieille, we came across an Edelweiss mirror for a mirror selfie.  This was one of the best parts of the day.  I did not get to see any real Edelweiss, but in my heart, they were there.  


There is no other person that I would want to hike 110 miles through the Alps with than Ken.  


We stopped at Maison Vieille for a coke and a snack before making the long-terrible trek down to Courmayeur.  It was terrible.  If we would have known how terrible, we may have called a cab.  It was straight down and I am sure the fact that we were on mile 16 was not helping.  We made the best of it and finally arrived in Courmayeur.  We found our hotel, showered, and went out to find Italian food.  

We both had pasta and Aperol Spritz.  I am not sure that dinner could have been any better.  


Aperol Spritz at dinner makes the long day worth it.


We finished the night with a bottle of red wine and some dessert and quickly fell asleep.  We were pretty worn out from our 19-mile day.  It was such a fun day trekking from France to Italy.

Tuesday, July 23, 2019

Tour du Mont Blanc...Day 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Mileage:  12.5 miles

Elevation gain:  4500 ft

Camping:  In the field behind the tourist office


I wish I could say that I slept like a baby in the tent.  Sadly, I heard every single noise that happened.  I decided that from here on out, I would sleep with my headphones and music playing, which ended up working very well. 

We woke up, had a little breakfast at the campground and got everything packed up to head out for a long-uphill day of hiking.  We starting hiking at 8:00 am. 

Who's ready for a long day of hiking???


The first mile or so was very flat and followed along a stream.  Soon, we stumbled upon a beautiful church, which was the Church of Notre Dame de la Gorge.  

The Church of Notre Dame de la Gorge

It was a welcomed little stop before we started climbing.


Ready to start climbing.  The first few miles of climbing were pretty mild and dare I say pleasant?

We had beautiful views and blue skies for our climb


Nothing beats hearing cowbells in the Alps!


My hiking partner was all smiles and getting excited about the upcoming snow passes to hike thru!


We saw a little refugio and decided that we should stop for a little sunscreen application and a Coke.  I have never drank as much soda as I did on this trip. Anytime we stopped at a refugio, I wanted something that was halfway between water and wine, so Coke it was!

The building on the right is where we stopped for a quick break.

We met some girls from Rhode Island and they insisted on taking a picture for us.  One of them told us that she knows what it is like to be on vacation with her husband and only have selfies.  It sure was sweet of her to insist on a picture.  She did this every time we saw her.


I am not much of a hat person, but I believe wearing a hat on this trip saved me a lot of burning.

We knew that we would be hiking in snow, but that it would not be dangerous.  We had been monitoring the snow on the TMB Facebook page and thanks to the heat wave that hit the area the week prior, we knew it was safe to pass without crampons or snow spikes.  

He was so excited about the snow.  I was okay with it as long as there were no steep drop-offs on the other side.

Snow ready!


Snow!

We reached the top of our first Col, the Col du Bonhomme and took a little break in the snow.  The sad part was that I could see the area where we were going next and it looked as though one of the passes thru the snow would include a steep drop off.  


On the way to the next col, we were treated to some amazing views.

We made it to the top of Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, our second col of the day!

I was pretty relieved that the snow passes were behind us for the day!


Refugio Bonhomme

We stopped here for a coke and some delicious pasta carbonara.  The bathroom situation here was my least favorite on the entire trail.  I chose to just hold it.

There were some beautiful views from the refugio!

After we enjoyed our pasta lunch, we started the long trek down to Les Chapieux.  I really dislike hiking downhill for so long, but we were treated to beautiful scenery.

We were just a few days early for the flowers in this field to be blooming.  I cannot imagine how beautiful it would be.

Mount Blanc looking beautiful

We were having a great time together


We had the most amazing weather and felt so lucky that we were getting to see the views that we did.


We could have sat there for hours and enjoyed the sunshine and scenery


The final few miles were a little rough being straight downhill and all.  We arrived at Les Chapieux at 4:00 pm, set up our tent and stopped off for drinks at the local refugio.

Rose for the win!

We ate dinner at the refugio and were seated next to an Italian couple.  The wife spoke a little English, but the husband did not.  I was trying to explain to here what we were doing, but I am not sure she completely understood.  Either that, or she thought we were crazy.


Our little set up for the night.

The view from our tent



I liked sitting by the stream and listening to the bells on the sheep.


My favorite part of the evening was when the farmer called out for dinner time and the sheep came running down the hill for dinner!


Doesn't everyone sleep with muffins above them?  This was our breakfast the following morning.

We were in bed fairly early for an early wake up the next day.  We had a 19 mile day ahead of us!